lunes, 16 de abril de 2007

Una historia en Languedoc

Maria Magdalena
(imagen Iglesia de St. Maximin)



En el sur de Francia, existe una tierra encerrada entre la montaña y el mar, de verdes viñas y azules aguas, llamada Languedoc.

Dicen por estos lugares que huyendo de las persecuciones a los que los seguidores de Jesús se vieron sometidos en Tierra Santa, María de Magdala, la Magdalena, junto a sus hermanos y algunos discipulos atracaron en una barca que desde allí había partido, en la localidad de Arlés, junto a la desembocadura del Ródano y donde siglos después Vincent Van Gogh ganó su inspiración para construir gran parte de su obra pictorica.

Dicen también que desde Arlés se encaminó a Marsella donde evangelizó Provenza. Dicen que murió en Aix-en-Provence y que está enterrada en St. Maximin, donde tras una urna de cristal se puede ver su craneo.

Y dicen que cuando llegó, estaba embarazada...

Con mucha ilusión, recien llegado desde mi Andalucía amada a Madrid, y aún no repuesto del viaje, hice de nuevo mis maletas y al mando de mi fiel córcel, que no se llama ni Babieca, ni Bucefalo ni tan siquiera Rocinante, sino Roberto, comencé mi periplo por esas autopistas de Dios, y de peaje, hasta el mediodía francés.

Era ya noche cerrada cuando llegue a mi primer destino, Marseillan, ciudad que había elegido como base de operaciones para recorrer el País Cátaro, quizás por estar junto al mar y a media distancia de todos los puntos que deseaba visitar.

Mi primer destino, al día siguiente, fue Montsegur.

En mi busqueda constante de conocer realmente lo que fueron y significaron los cátaros, este lugar me intrigaba, y sigue intrigando, de manera casi obsesiva.

Fue en el año de 1243 cuando todo ocurrió. Los cátaros habían criticado severamente a la Iglesia Católica aduciendo que se desviaba totalmente del cristianismo primigenio, fundamentalmente de las enseñanzas del Evangelio de San Juán, el único reconocido como modo de vida por su filosofía. Como contraprestación, el Papado les declaró herejes.

Cuentan que los ahora herejes cátaros en número de unos 500 se refugiaron en el Castillo de Montsegur, impresionante e inexpugnable fortaleza, donde resisitieron cuantos asedios padecieron por parte de los aliados del Papa. Finalmente Pier Roger de Mirapoix y Ramón de Péreille iniciaron en el mes de marzo de ese preciso año, las negociaciones para favorecer la rendición de los asediados. Para ello, les otorgaron la gracia de elegir, o bien abjurar de sus creencias, o bien morir en la hoguera.

El 15 de marzo de 1244, los supervivientes, que sin contar a los niños, entre hombres y mujeres sumaban la cifra de 210 almas, celebraron el equinoccio de primavera entregandose posteriormente a sus sitiadores.

Ninguno de ellos abjuró, por lo que al día siguiente, 16 de marzo de 1244, todos ardieron en la hoguera. En el mismo lugar donde estos hombres y mujeres murieron cantando, existe hoy una lápida con la inscripción "A los cátaros, a los mártires del puro amor cristiano". El lugar se llama el Campo de los Quemados, y en su memoria, el grupo de rock Iron Maiden, les dedicó su canción Dance of Death.

Mi decisión era trasladarme a otro lugar Rennes le Chatêau, no por su relación con los cátaros, sino por su leyenda.

Lo primero que me sorprendió nada mas llegar al pueblo fue comprobar que sin querer, la localidad se ha convertido en un centro turístico. Lo segundo, un cartel del Ayuntamiento donde se prohibe taxativamente la busqueda de tesoros.

Todo comienza cuando un cura, de nombre Bérenguer Saunière, nacido el 11 de abril de 1852 y fallecido el 22 de enero de 1917, acusado de indisciplina, es obligado a trasladarse al pueblo para ejercer de sacerdote. LLega pués a Rennes-le-Chatêau, el día 1 de junio de 1885 y nunca fue un hombre normal.

Bérenguer Saunière
(Párroco en Renne
s-le-Chatêau)


Parece ser que intentó reconstruir la Iglesia que existe en el pueblo en honor a María Magdalena, pero no pudo hacerlo, ya que carecía del suficiente dinero para ello. Sin embargo, y aquí comienza la parte del enigma, de repente, de la noche a la mañana, sus fondos pasaron a ser ilimitados, reconstruyo la Iglesia, la llenó de estatuas, algunas bastante grotescas y se dedicó a gastar ingentes sumas de dinero, sobretodo en la compra de tierras en el pueblo donde realizaba constantes y continuas excavaciones.

En 1982 los peiodistas británicos Henry Lincoln, Richard Leigh y Michael Baigent, publicaron el libro Holy Blood and Holy Grail, donde explicaban, razonaban y pretendian demostrar la idea del Santo Grial, luego retomada en el best- seller mundial de Dan Brown, El Código Da Vinci.

Afirmaban que Cristo no murió en la cruz. Se salvó, se casó con María Magdalena, tuvo una hija, Sara, y terminó sus días en un pequeño pueblo del sur de Francia. El nombre del pueblo ya lo habreis adivinado, Rennes-le-Chatêau.

Parece ser que el secreto de la verdadera Tumba de Cristo, fue bien guardado por el Priorato de Sión, que tenían a su disposición un ejercito poderoso, los Caballeros Templarios. Sin embargo, según iban muriendo los integrantes del Priorato, eran sucedidos por nuevos iniciados entre los que destacaron Leonardo Da Vinci, Isaac Newton, Victor Hugo y Claude Debussy, razón por la que a través de sus "códigos", los periodistas británicos consiguieron descifrar y conocer la historia.

A partir de aquí, ya todo es explicable, el cura Saunière se hizo rico al encontrar los Tesoros de la Tumba o bien chantajeando al Vaticano para no contar la verdad, Sara, la hija de Jesús y María Magdalena fundó la dinastía de los merovingios que llegaron a reinar en Francia y el Santo Grial es realmente el Sangreal, es decir, Sang real, o la sangre real que corre por las venas de todos los descendientes de Cristo.

A partir de aquí, la historia tiene mil caras. Por un lado están los que creen a pié juntillas la historia de la Tumba de Jesús, los que piensan que realmente Jesús murió en la Cruz, pero desposado de Magdalena y ésta, embarazada, llega a Francia donde da a luz a una niña que funda la dinastía merovingia y por último, los que piensan que todo es un fantastico embuste nacido de la mente de Pierre Plantard.

Efectivamente, este hombre inventó en 1956 el Priorato de Sión y fue el que pasó a los periodistas británicos las pistas que les llevaron hasta Rennes-le-Chatèau. Sus motivos eran simples, el argumentaba ser el único descendiente de los merovingios y por lo tanto portador de la sangre real y legítimo rey de Francia.

Pero... ¿Que descubrió entonces Bérenguer Saunière?. En el Museo de la Ciudad se encuentra la columna donde éste manifestó haber descubierto ciertos planos que... le hicieron inmensamente rico de la noche a la mañana.

Además, la historia sobre la muerte de María Magdalena en Francia es muy anterior a toda la inventiva de Plantard.

Sin embargo, lo que para mi es mas importante, lo que en realidad me deja aún perplejo es que, si bien está demostrado que el Priorato de Sión es una invención de Plantard, es totalmente cierto que los Caballeros Templarios fundaron efectivamente la Orden de Sión y que éstos custodiaban los secretos del Santo Grial.

Secretos de estas tierras...

Continuando mi viaje en busca de los lugares cátaros, visité el Castillo de Queribus, en Cucugnan, impresionante mole colgando de los riscos de lo que fué el último reducto cátaro, ya que, pese a que 100 años después de su rendición en mayo de 1255, aún la Inquisición seguía juzgando cátaros, la toma de este castillo dió por finalizada la persecución de estos en la occitania francesa.

El final de mi busqueda, ya cercana. me iba a deparar sin embargo, dos visitas espectaculares. La primera la realicé a la ciudad que vió nacer a Toulusse-Lotrec, ciudad que no es otra que Albi y que da el otro nombre por el que se conoce a los cátaros, el de albigestes y finalmente la fortaleza medieval de Carcassone, la ciudad fortiicada mas grande que se conserva en Europa y sin lugar a dudas el mas importante bastión albigeste del Languedoc y de la historia.

Carcassone
(Fortaleza Cátara)


Pero realmente, ¿que era el catarismo?. La respuesta no es tan sencilla como pudiera parecer, por un lado era un movimiento religioso nacido en el siglo X y por otro una actitud filosófica de la vida, en definitiva, un modo religioso de vivir.

Poco se sabe de los cátaros y lo que se conoce es a través de sus enemigos, pero por lo que parece ser, era mas bien un movimiento anticlerical que se oponía a la práctica del sacerdocio como consecuencia de la constante corrupción de los clérigos.

En Francia, verdadera cuna del movimiento religioso, se llamaban a si mismos "hombres buenos" y en esa acepción entraban tanto los hombres como las mujeres, ya que el término, hombres, valía para los dos sexos. Sin embargo, los cátaron no estuvieron libres de influencias, fundamentalmente de la Iglesia Rusa. No eran muy numerosos y su establecimiento en las tierras del Languedoc fue causa de la protección que hacía el catarismo impulsó el duque Guillermo de Aquitania, su ángel protector.

Probablemente no habrían sido tan famosos en la historia sino hubiera sido por su gran secreto: El Grial. Éste era el Cáliz en el que José de Arimatea, recogió hasta la última gota de sangre de Cristo en el momento de su crucifixión. Lo que poca gente conoce es que pese a pensarse que esta reliquia está desaparecida, la Iglesia reconoce su existencia, dando como autentica, una reliquia que se conserva en España, concretamente en Valencia.

Existe una leyenda basada en un relato de Robert de Boron titulado El Mago Merlín, escrito en el siglo XII y que habla de que la Ultima Cena celebrada por Cristo y sus discipulos fue realmente un acto donde el propio Jesús instituyo la Orden de Caballería de la Tabla Redonda. Acabada la cena José de Arimatea se apoderó del Caliz, con permiso del propio Pilatos, recogió la Sagrada Sangre y huyó. Según Boron, el propio José de Arimatea instituyó la segunda Tabala Redonda y la tercera y ultima fue la archiconocida Tabla Redonda del mítico rey Arturo y sus Caballeros de Camelot.

Pese a que la cinematografía ha trasladado a Arturo y su Tabla Redonda a Inglaterra, la historia tiene otra visión muy distinta. Por un lado, el célebre músico aleman Richard Wagner da vida operistica a Parsifal, y para ello se basa en la epopeya escrita por Wolfram von Eschenbach titulada Parzival, en la que el protagonista dice ser de Waleis.

Pese a que casi todo el mundo ha identificado Waleis con Gales, en Gran Bretaña, hay quien situa Waleis con la ciudad suiza de Valois a orillas del lago Leman. ¿Por qué?, sencillo, Parsifal, en sus andanzas jamás cruzó el mar, y teniendo en cuenta que su periplo termina en Nantes, este hecho jamás hubiera sido posible.

Siguiendo con el nuevo hilo de la historia, el mítico Arturo rey de Britania, bien podia haberlo sido de Bretaña, es decir, norte de Francia, con lo que todo el periplo de la busqueda del Grial, lejos de transcurrir en territorio inglés, transcurre en su integridad en tierras de Francia, con lo que la historia cobra una nueva dimensión.

Sin embargo, bien parece ser que los primeros Papas estuvieron en posesión del Grial hasta que Alarico, rey visigodo saqueó Roma en el año 410 y entre el tesoro conquistado estaba además el preciado objeto. Alarico regreso a Francia, muriendo y siendo enterrado, tal y como era tradición, con buena parte del botín sustraido, en las inmediaciones de... Rennes-le-Chatêau.

Parece ser, según cuentan por estas tierras, que los cátaros y los Templarios fueron conocedores del lugar exacto de la reliquia por un lado y del secreto de la paternidad de Jesus, ya que de hecho, los cátaros no reconocian la divinidad en Jesús, ya que consideraban que éste la había perdido al ser engendrado en María, al fin y al cabo un ser humano igual que ellos, sino que mas bien le consideraban como un hombre perfecto al que habría que imitar, por lo que formaron una sociedad hermética que garantizaba por un lado el secreto del lugar exacto de la reliquia del Grial y por otro el secreto de la Sangre Real fruto de la unión del Hijo de Dios, Cristo con María Magdalena.

En el siglo XI, fue nombrado Papa con el nombre de Gregorio VII, un misógino llamado Hildelbrando. Este Papa que fue quien instituyó el célibato dentro de la Iglesia, fue el artifice de la Cruzada que llevó a conquistar Jerusalen a Godofredo de Bouillón, descendiente directo de Dagoberto II, el ultimo merovingio que reinó sobre Francia. En aquel tiempo vivia en la ciudad italiana de Lucca, la condesa Matilde de Canossa, que exigió al mismísimo Papa, el derecho para poder celebrar la eucaristia. El Papa, pese al odio visceral que le producian las mujeres, no podia negarle tal derecho, y de hecho no lo hizo, ya que, la condesa era tía carnal de Godofredo de Bouillón y por lo tanto portadora en su cuerpo de la sangre y estirpe del mismísimo Jesús.


Matilde de Canossa
(¿Descendiente de Jesús?)


El Papa, incapaz de negar su derecho a la condesa, le encomendó que antes de hacerlo, debía construir al menos cien Iglesias. Sin embargo Matilde de Canossa murió cuando apenas había fundado noventa y nueve de ellas, lo que llevó al Pontífice un aire de gran alivio.

Los cátaros repudiaban el símbolo de la cruz, ya que consideraban nefasta la adoración del lugar donde Jesús había sido martirizado.

Fueron muy pocos y su historia se terminó por su oposición a los dogmas de fe de la Iglesia Católica, ya que para ellos; Jesús no fue célibe y no murió en la cruz, por lo que negaban el principio fundamental de la Religión Católica, la resurrección.

Sus secretos permanecen ocultos bajo mas de mil años de polvo que el tiempo se ha encargado de ocultar. Sin embargo, un oscura razón hace que tantos años después siga viva la llama del conocimiento que, con solo pronunciar su nombre, aviva nuestra memoria.

Hace mucho tiempo que desaparecieron, aunque quizás, si su verdad es cierta, todavía queden personas portadoras de la Sangre Real, viviendo ajenas a su linage en estas tierras de Languedoc.

Esa simple idea me hace sonreir, mientras la simpática guia que me muestra en un muy correcto español, la fortaleza de Carcassone, me señala con el dedo mientras que con los ojos entornados me susurra, "tu eres un cátaro"

Qui lo sa, mom amic, qui lo sa...


Dedicado a Mamen, por su amistad y su interés por las cosas que escribo







299 comentarios:

1 – 200 de 299   Más reciente›   El más reciente»
El Cerrajero dijo...

No se si alguien lleva glóbulos de Jesús por sus venas, pero si se que hay uno al menos que lleva sangre del diablo por las suyas: Rodríguez el Traidor.

Daniel Terrasa dijo...

Veo que has venido impresionado de tu último viaje a Francia. Comparto contigo la fascinación por este país, su historia y cultura. Me ha encantado este post. Tengo dos lugares especiales del Midi francés: Carcassonne (impresionante) y Sète, cuna de mi admirado Brassens.

En mayo viajo a Bretaña, terra incognita para mí. No sé si has visitado esa región y si me puedes dar algún consejo.

Un saludo

El Asomado dijo...

Sète es un maravilloso pueblo marinero con un encanto demasiado especial. Me gustó desde su mirador observar la localización exacta de cada rincón de La Tierra y aunque no tiene nada que ver con los cátaros, pasear por sus calles y cruzar sus puentes me hizo transportarme a mi pasado.

Anónimo dijo...

Gracias por dedicarme un brillante post, fruto de tan magnífico trabajo de investigación.
Conversaremos sobre algo que no mencionas, que se cuenta, y que me intriga su posible veracidad.
Un beso.
Mamen.

Recaredo dijo...

Magnífico viaje, y magnífico post. Llevo muchísimo tiempo con unas ganas locas de visitar el Languedoc y la tierra de los cátaros. Y como no, Rennes le Chateu. Por problemas de trabajo aún no he podido. Pero el otoño que viene, sin falta, estaré allí visitando esas tierras de leyenda.
Lo que cuentas de Bertrand Sauniere, en mi opinión, el origen de su fortuna se debe a que engañó a una serie de miembros de la alta sociedad parisina. Seguramente les contase que había encontrado la tumba de Cristo -túmulo funerario que fue destruido por el dueño de los terrenos en que se encontraba en la década de los 80- y el tesoro de los templarios. Se dedicó a contarles milongas para sacarles el dinero, pero no creo que encontrase nada realmente significativo.
Por las descripciones que he leído de la iglesia debe ser terrorífica, con la estatua del demonio Asmodeo -guardián de los secretos- y una leyenda que dice "Este lugar es terrible" -otra confusión de un texto mal traducido-.

El Asomado dijo...

La verdad, amigo Recaredo, es que entiendo que alguien que como tu, es descendiente del gran Alarico y Leovigildo, este interesado en visitar su casa de Languedoc.

Bromas aparte, no solo la Iglesia, sino todo Rennes, acojona. De verdad, por muy turistica que sea la villa, hay algo que flota en el ambientillo que deja un cierto tufillo a que alli ha pasado algo.

El sitio incluso donde esta ubicada la ciudad es no se... algo fantasmagorico, es raro, de verdad.

Además, los comerciantes y habitantes de alli, los guias, todo el mundo se encarga mas o menos y con mayor o menor éxito de crear esa atmosfera de misterio que tantos turistas atrae.

En lo que manifiestas sobre las riquezas de Bérenguer Saunière, la postura oficial de la Iglesia es que se hizo rico "traficando con misas".

El tráfico de misas era una cosa muy extendida por los curas de la época, ya que, ofrecían la posibilidad de decir misas por seres queridos desaparecidos, por fortalecer a enfermos o por el alma de los que se sentian pecadores si antes se las pagaban.

Así, si alguien establecia, por ejemplo, en textamento que a su muerte se dijeran 100 misas, para asegurarse de que así fuera, pagaba antes al cura.

En el libro de encargos de Saunière, figuran mas de 5000 de estas misas, por lo que no resulta muy descabellada esta postura, sobretodo, porque no está muy claro que este cura viajara realmente a Paris...

Sin embargo, si es cierto, porque yo lo he visto, que en el Museo existe la columna donde Saunière encontró algo y es cierto que esta columna tiene un depósito secreto del tamaño mas o menos de una caja de CD donde algo debió de haber escondido...

Cuando vayas al Languedoc, dimelo, te puedo ayudar, si quieres, con el viaje, ya que esta región además de lugares mistoriosos, tambien tiene rincones increibles.

Un abrazo

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